When determining what remodeling projects are most deserving, homeowners should consider that windows offer some of the biggest payoffs. According to Remodeling Magazine’s “Cost vs. Value Report,” when updating windows, homeowners can expect up to an 85 percent return on investment. Coupled with the energy cost savings, it usually pays to replace.

“Windows make that all-important first impression, and for this and many other reasons they should be in good working order,” says Rod Clark, window marketing manager for JELD-WEN. “Windows and doors have a direct impact on energy conservation, security and aesthetics.”

Below is a checklist to help homeowners decide if replacing windows is the right choice.

How to Evaluate Windows for Replacement

1. Examine Your Existing Windows

If your window shows signs of wear and tear or exposure, such as cracked paint, but operates normally, then it’s likely time to refinish it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If vinyl windows show signs of seal failure between the glass panes, or wood windows have severe warping due to moisture or wood decay, then it’s time to replace.

2. Evaluate Problems

In addition to normal wear and tear and energy efficiency, there are a few other indicators that window replacement is needed. Signs to look for include:

* Problems opening or closing. In older homes, wood windows may have been painted over numerous times or may have become severely warped due to age and weather conditions. Windows that don’t open and close easily or properly are more than just annoying; they are a safety issue and a sign that it’s time to replace them.

* Drafts. There are many tests to determine if a window is drafty, such as placing a lighted candle next to the window to see if the flame moves. If it does, your windows are drafty and your energy bills are paying the price and it is time to replace.

* Excess noise. Older, single-pane windows don’t block as much noise as new double-pane windows. If you can hear your neighbors chatting across the street as they are getting their mail, it’s probably time to upgrade your windows.

3. Consider Energy Efficiency

Classic signs of inefficient windows include condensation, drafts and warped frames due to moisture. If energy efficiency is the top priority or water infiltration is an issue, the best choice is to replace poorly performing windows and patio doors with ENERGY STAR qualified windows. Manufacturers such as JELD-WEN offer wood, vinyl and aluminum ENERGY STAR qualified windows. When replacing single-pane windows with ENERGY STAR qualified windows, homeowners can save $125 to $340 a year, depending on the climate.

4. Determine How Much Impact Replacement Will Have on a Home

Upgrading to energy efficient windows has become much easier as new products and technology emerge. In the past, window replacement has been a more complex project best suited for professional contractors or highly skilled do-it-yourselfers. However, replacement windows, such as JELD-WEN’s Wood Double-Hung Pocket Window and Vinyl replacement windows, make it easier and less expensive.

When choosing replacement windows, look for ones that are designed for installation into existing window frames to help make sure the impact to the exterior of the home is minimal. This is key, especially for brick or stucco exteriors. By using replacement windows designed to fit into existing openings, the process is simpler, quicker and minimizes wear on the exterior siding.

5. Evaluate the Need for a Contractor

If you can’t do the replacement on your own, hiring a contractor may be the best way to go. Hiring a contractor can save time, cut down on stress and ensure projects are done correctly. When hiring a contractor, be sure to interview several candidates, ask for references and don’t automatically choose the lowest bidder. Insist that they follow proper installation instructions from the manufacturer to ensure reliable performance.

For more information about JELD-WEN replacement windows, or to find a dealer near you, visit www.jeld-wen.com or call (800) 877-9482.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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Proper paint selection is first and foremost. In most cases, an oil-based or alkyd paint is the best choice. It creates a long-lasting surface that resists weathering. On the other hand, latex breathes. So, in houses where moisture is likely to get trapped it can be preferable.

Deciding on whether a primer is needed can be difficult. If the surface would absorb too readily, making it necessary to use several top coats, go with primer. It’s much less expensive and creates a good bond for the final painting, which may be done in a single coat. It’s also vital when painting a different color, since it will help prevent color bleed through.

After masking is completed, you’re ready to go. Just keep the following tips in mind to prevent unsightly errors.

Rapid peeling results from a combination of factors. Painting over wood that contains too much moisture is the most common. Since preparation involves washing the surface first, it’s important to ensure that the wood is well dried before starting. A moisture meter can be used to determine the moisture content.

Moisture can penetrate wood after the paint job, too, though. Latex breathes and allows trapped moisture to evaporate off the surface. But it won’t generally weather as well, so there’s a trade off. Decide based on your individual circumstances. In areas or houses where rain is scarce or water unlikely to get inside, it’s not usually a problem.

Normal peeling from age and weathering is a different animal. That can result from using latex. It may also be from painting a poor surface, such as grayed wood. The fibers are tight and the wood cells have changed so they no longer absorb paint as readily. Good preparation is the key to preventing this problem, or at least slowing it down. A good oxalic acid wash may be just the thing.

A surface flaw called alligatoring is another common problem. As the paint dries, it gathers together, exposing the undercoat. That will happen if the topcoat doesn’t adhere well to the surface below. Good sanding and/or primer is the key to preventing it.

Wrinkling has a similar look, but occurs when paint droops like sagging skin. That can happen when the consistency of the paint used is too thick. Oil-based paints are especially prone to this. They are thicker to begin with and are often not thinned properly before beginning. They also dry more slowly. If another coat is applied before the first one is fully dry, wrinkling may result.

Sagging looks similar, but here the error is incorrect brushing technique. Too much paint on the brush at one time can produce too thick a coat. Spreading it out only does so much. Simply wipe the brush over the rim before applying. Don’t try to rush the job by getting as much paint as possible into the brush.

Blisters, by contrast, have an altogether different appearance. Just like the skin condition, paint blisters are small, oval bumps on the surface.

They may be due to moisture, in which case better preparation was needed. But they can also occur as the result of solvent getting trapped underneath the coat. If wood appears underneath the blister, moisture was the likely cause. If paint appears, solvent is probably the culprit.

In the first case, ensure the surface is dry before painting. Solvent blisters can occur when painting in too-high temperatures. The high heat causes the paint compounds to separate and the solvent gets trapped in a bubble.

With proper preparation and technique your exterior walls can get painted quickly and with a stellar result. A little thought and effort before hand, and a little patience during, will produce a great looking exterior wall.

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Preparation

Proper preparation is key, as it is with any painting job. Trim will need to be masked exactly. If wall painting is done first, it can be very difficult to achieve the proper color if wall paint has touched the trim first. If trim is being done alone, it’s necessary to mask around the trim to avoid getting paint on the walls. Even if the trim and walls are the same color, new paint will show as a different shade.

Windows represent a special challenge. Mutins (the wooden or metal dividers between panes), make necessary precision masking to avoid getting paint on the glass. It’s usually easier to mask the glass carefully than to scrape off paint afterward. Also, it’s safer, since a blade used to clean off the glass can slip and scrape the newly painted trim.

Conditions

As with any exterior painting job, it’s critical to ensure that surfaces are dry before beginning. That goes double for trim. Large wall surfaces exposed to the sun will dry off more quickly than sections of trim that contain angles that trap moisture.

Wait 2-3 days after it has rained before beginning an exterior job. Also, start the job a little later in the day, to allow morning dew to evaporate. By the same token, it’s a good idea to finish a couple of hours before dusk, to let new paint dry a bit before the evening moisture arrives.

More than just moisture, temperature is important, too. Apart from the fact that moisture gathers more readily in cooler temperatures, cold weather causes paint to dry too slowly. In extremes, cold temperatures can cause wrinkling. About 50F/10C is the minimum for most climates.

The opposite extreme can be just as big a problem. High temperatures cause paint to dry too quickly, which can introduce surface irregularities. Blistering is common when oil-based or alkyd paints get too hot. The compounds separate and a bubble forms with solvent inside.

Technique

As with any painting job, always start from the top down. Dip the brush a couple of inches into the paint, but remove any excess by wiping the brush against the rim. Don’t try to rush the job by using too much paint at once. Then pull the brush up and hold it parallel to the ground with the paint filled surface up.

Work the brush perpendicular to the grain for the first few strokes. That gets paint into all the miniature grooves and crevices. Then brush with the grain to smooth everything out.

On smaller surfaces such as window mutins, use a smaller brush or at least turn a large brush on its side. Even when the areas are masked be prepared to take the time needed to do trim right. A fast brush will flick paint onto surfaces where it’s not desired. This is not a part of the paint job where you can expect to do large sections quickly, as with wall surfaces painted by a roller.

Smaller rollers can be used, though, on thick trim. A four inch wide roller can do a four to six inch piece of trim just fine. Go slowly though. A fast roll will inevitably fling paint onto the walls.

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For all but the smallest jobs, a ladder is a must.

Make sure you overspend here. That doesn’t mean buying foolishly, but getting more ladder than you think you need. Walls are always higher than they look and you need to stand two or even three steps down from the top rung for safety.

Get something ultra sturdy. The ladder will have to support your body weight, plus a bucket of paint or a heavy spray canister. Add to that, brushes, pans, rollers and other equipment you want with you and the ladder needs to support about 10-15% more than your weight. If you fall, even if you don’t injure yourself, you’ll have a heck of a mess to clean up. Overspend.

Most jobs will require a bucket or two. Though paints obviously come in cannisters or buckets themselves, you’ll often be mixing thinner, water or other compounds into the paint. You don’t want to do that in the original container. Plus, when using a roller, you’ll need a paint pan or two.

There are optional lids that can be helpful, too. A standard paint can lid can be a real pain to open, especially after paint dries around the top lip. Slip on lids, some with paint pouring spouts can save you a lot of trouble.

But before you can even get started on the actual painting, you’ll need to do a lot of preparation work. That can be up to 80% of the total time spent. Keep that number as low as possible by getting good materials.

Masking tape, sometimes known as blue tape, is a must for those jobs that require painting window sills, walls near baseboard and other close areas. Even the most skilled professional can’t avoid getting paint on other surfaces without it.

Drop cloths, plastic or canvas tarps, and other large covers can be vital for certain jobs. Ceiling paint projects are an obvious example. But even when paint isn’t dripping from above, it’s all too easy to splatter some around. A slight flick of the brush or a little too much speed with the roller is all it takes to fling paint droplets against a floor. Cover everything well.

Then, thankfully, every painting job comes to an end – at least for a day. Once that stage is reached, cleanup begins. Masking and covering will help make that quicker. But there will still be brushes and rollers to clean. Few will want to endure the expense of simply throwing the day’s tools away and starting with new ones tomorrow.

Paint thinner is essential for cleaning off oil-based or alkyd paints. Soap and water will do for latex. Gloves will make it super quick to clean hands and a good head covering will save time trying to wash paint out of your hair. The occasional scraper will be needed for those areas where you weren’t quite careful enough.

Get the proper supplemental equipment and your home painting job will be quicker, easier and higher quality.

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Tape

For quick and cheap masking efforts standard ivory masking tape is good enough. It got the name for a reason. But for sections where the plastic covering or tape will remain in place for more than a day, blue tape can be a big time saver.

Blue tape, also known as safe release tape, has a special adhesive that clings well but comes off cleanly. After a day in the sun and air, ordinary crepe tape will split and ooze. That leaves glue and pieces of masking tape on the surface when it’s removed. That makes for a much more difficult clean up. Blue tape doesn’t have that drawback.

Blue tape also is safer to use on a variety of finishes. Scraping or even washing off ordinary masking or crepe tape opens up the possibility of ruining the surface that the tape covered. That partly defeats the purpose of applying it in the first place.

Covering

Some do-it-yourselfers will try to cut expenses by using newspaper. That may be fine for very small jobs. But for any extensive effort, using newspaper will have undesirable drawbacks. Newspaper readily gets wet, whether from paint or water. That leads to too-easy tearing, making the covering useless.

There is an alternative that still uses paper. Specialized paper designed for house paint masking jobs is flexible and sturdy. It sheds water and holds up well to paint drips. But it can be a little on the pricey side and may or may not be reusable, depending on the treatment it gets.

Plastic, especially tarps or covers that are made specifically for paint jobs, is often the best bet. Cheap plastic, such as a large trash bag, isn’t designed to have the tensile strength or other properties needed for good masking. Using plastic covers (which often come in large rolls) made for the job yield the best result. Frequently, it can be re-used.

Spending a few extra dollars for good paper or plastic covering is worthwhile.

Use

Applying plastic covers and taping it off requires no special skill, just patience and care. Take the time to be exact and be willing to use more than you think you need. It isn’t fun, but the better you prepare, the better the final results.

Apply a strip or area of tape to any exposed outlets (after removing the covers) to keep paint from getting inside. Ditto for light switches. Not only does dried paint make it difficult or impossible to use the outlet or switch, it can cause electrical problems, such as providing insulation where it shouldn’t be.

Apply tape in long strips onto the plastic, leaving an inch or so of adhesive exposed. Then apply the mask to window sills, door frames and anywhere else they need to go. Inspect the area carefully to ensure that nothing is visible that isn’t supposed to get painted.

Now for the easy part. Painting.

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Skipping this step will almost always produce a poor final result. Adding to the difficulty is the fact that interior preparation jobs require much greater care than for exterior surfaces. Washing is harder. Dust from sanding requires special handling to avoid making the complete house unsanitary and possibly unhealthy.

But the results will be well worth the effort. A well-prepared interior surface makes painting go quick and easy. It produces a wall that shines and paint that lasts much longer.

Step one is to remove any wall fixtures, outlet or switch covers, or decoration from the area and make repairs. Unless you intend to put them right back in the same place, you’ll want to plug any nail or screw holes with putty. Any gouges or cracks are fixed at this stage. Wood filler goes on easy and dries quickly, leaving a surface that can be sanded to perfection.

One step that is easier is cleaning. Most interior surfaces haven’t suffered the kind of weathering the outside gets. Mildew is much less often a problem. That can make it possible to skip any but minor cleaning before sanding. A quick wipe with a moist cloth may be all that’s needed.

Any sections with peeling paint should be dealt with before sanding. A 6-8 inch scraper can do large areas quickly. For corners, angles and other close-in areas a smaller blade will be necessary. For really stubborn areas that look like they’ll continue to peel even after sanding, a heat gun can help loosen the paint.

Sanding is usually easier for interior jobs, as well. Rough spots will need to be dealt with. Anything that is visible before painting will appear magnified after the new paint is applied.

Still, it’s important to control dust. You’ll need a mask to prevent inhaling particles that come off the surface. Repeated exposure can lead to allergic-like reactions. After sanding a section, be prepared to wipe down the area with a dry cloth and/or vacuum periodically. Those same particles can fall onto wall surfaces and the carpet or floor where they get blown into the air later.

For an area that is discolored or contains water stains, what needs to be done depends on the degree of the damage. In some cases, a simple primer applied before the top coat is all that’s needed to prevent them showing through. In other cases, it may be necessary to sand more thoroughly or even replace sections of drywall.

Naturally, if the wall or other surface is brand new preparation can be close to nothing. A fresh panel may require only a little bit of primer before getting painted. This is a good opportunity to apply a treatment that prevents mildew from even getting started. Oil-based paints, for example, can trap moisture and organisms can grow under the surface. That leads to rot down the road.

Now for the easy part. Painting.

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Most paints can be divided into two broad categories: oil-based or alkyds and latex or water-based types. In general, alkyd is used outdoors and latex indoors. But there are many exceptions, which makes selecting the right interior paint all the more interesting.

Latex paint has many advantages for indoor jobs.

Latex is great for a wide variety of indoor surfaces. Plaster or drywall, stucco and other common interior wall and ceiling materials soak it up just fine. It will last for years, providing a glossy, semi-glossy or flat appearance according to choice. Just pick the finish you want and voila!

Latex spreads easily and is very forgiving. Running is less likely and it soaks into many surfaces well. It is no problem to apply evenly and if you have produced a streak a single brush stroke can solve the problem.

It cleans up easy. Once you’re done, or just done for the day, you just rinse the brush or roller or sponge out and you’re good to go for the next day. Clean up of pans and other items is equally easy.

The results dry quickly. Since it’s less expensive than other types of paint, if you’re not satisfied with the look or just need another coat, it’s easy and cheap to apply another. It also ‘breathes’, so any moisture trapped will evaporate out of the paint without producing a bubble. Mildew buildup is rarely a problem.

But there are circumstances where other types are called for.

In sunny rooms that get a lot of direct sunshine an oil-based paint will last longer. Oil-based paints also are made with more and deeper pigments. That gives a selection of ultra-bright or rich colors that can be difficult to achieve with latex paints.

Also, trim, doors and other surfaces often look better painted with an alkyd type, even in a room otherwise done with latex. The extra brightness and rich color gives a nice contrast.

Certain surfaces do better with something other than a latex or alkyd paint. Acoustic tile, for example, is carefully manufactured to soak up sound, to prevent sound reflections off the surface. Rooms with a stereo system or TV-theater system can benefit from a ceiling or wall covered with it. But painting acoustic tile with an ordinary oil or even latex paint can substantially interfere with the ability of the tile to perform its intended function.

To get the best results, a special acoustic tile paint is needed. It’s more expensive than the other types. But anyone who went to the trouble to optimize their home entertainment area won’t mind a little investment. That will make the area look great while keeping the sonic qualities desired.

Certain specialized applications, such as painting masonry can benefit from an equally specialized paint, such as a rubber-based paint. It clings to the surface well and will last longer than latex. It’s waterproof, making it ideal for certain applications, such as the basement.

Select the type of interior paint most appropriate for the job and you’ll get long-lasting and beautiful results.

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Proper paint selection is the first requirement. Interior paints, whether latex or oil-based, come in a variety of finishes: glossy, semi-glossy, satin, eggshell and flat. Which to choose depends, of course, on the final look desired. The names are descriptive of the final finish.

High gloss paint leaves a very shiny, easy to clean surface. But it reflects a lot of light, giving a room a very bright look. It also shows dirt and smudges clearly. Semi-gloss is nearly the same, but with a lower sheen. They work well for high humidity rooms and trim.

Satins give a mild sheen that cleans up easily. They can be used anywhere inside. Eggshell paints go on smooth and leave a low-sheen on the surface. That can be the perfect look for a hallway, den or other quiet area.

Flat paint is just what it sounds like. It goes on thin and leaves a matte look, with little light reflection. Far from being dull, though, that may be just the right look for certain areas.

A bedroom can be the perfect place for a subtle, low-key look. Also, flat paints, because they don’t reflect as much light, help mask wall defects, such as small scratches. That makes a touch up of a wall in the kid’s room the perfect application for a flat paint. Ceilings are an ideal application, where low light reflection is often desired.

Once the paint is selected, it’s time to go. Start at the top with the ceiling, if that’s part of the job and work your way down. A roller can do those large areas quickly, but be sure to pick a nap length that will produce the desired result. The longer the nap, the rougher the final look. Take care not to move too fast and fling paint off the roller as it moves.

If you use latex, you’ll need to paint a smaller area at a time. Latex dries quickly and you need to keep a wet leading edge to ensure there are no overlap marks left when it dries. For most people, a square three to five feet on edge is about right. Oil-based or alkyd paints require a little more care to apply. They tend to drip more and leave runs. They require more smoothing.

When you get to the areas near the trim and baseboard a brush becomes mandatory. Even a well-masked border will absorb some paint from a roller as it bleeds through. A technique called ‘cutting in’ is used with a brush in those areas.

Cutting in requires a steady hand, but most do-it-yourselfers can manage it. Dip the brush into the can or pan about two inches and scrape off any excess paint onto the rim. Move the brush close to the border and give it a short jab, taking care not to touch the masking tape. You generally will just touch it, but by making an effort to avoid it, you’ll tend to produce little paint at the very edge.

Now go over the same strip near the edge horizontally, in order to smooth out any lines or narrow vertical strips produced by cutting in.

Easy!

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Color and Type Selection

Selecting the color and type of paint is number one on the list.

That’s a little harder than it sounds. You’ll need to research whether you want oil or latex-based paint. Oil is generally preferred outside for its long lasting quality. Latex is often chosen indoors since it makes for easy clean up of stains. But there’s no iron clad rule. For example, an interior room that gets lots of sunshine all day long will generally do better with an oil or alkyd-based paint.

Choosing a color is easier – if one person makes the choice. Apart from possible disagreements over preference, there is still the daunting task of selecting among a hundred different shades. Many of them blend into one another and it can be hard to visualize the final result. Starting with a color palette on the computer is ok, but graduate quickly to a booklet of samples. The colors on a computer screen will look very different on a wall.

Prep Work

Allocate enough time to do the proper prep work.

Painting, whether exterior or interior, is 80% preparation. Though you can paint large areas with a roller or sprayer quickly, there are always a hundred surfaces you don’t want painted. That means masking, laying down plastic or tarp, and other time-consuming preparation tasks.

There’s another type of preparation work that may take a little or a lot of time, depending on your surface. An exterior wall or trim can become cracked, oxidized and suffer other effects. Interiors can require patching of dents or holes, scrapes and similar defects. Going to all the expense and trouble of painting your house makes the extra work to do the prep worthwhile. That is, if you want the final result to look as close to new as possible.

Materials

Get your materials together.

Painting looks simple. But professionals earn their money in part because they know what the job takes and they have the tools to do it.

Paint and paint brushes or rollers are only two of the most obvious things you’ll need. But prep work may require sanding blocks and sandpaper, wood putty, spatulas and more. Painting requires either a complete spray kit or pans with stirring sticks. Thinner for oil-based paints is a must to remove ‘accidents’ and get paint to the desired consistency.

But, once you’ve got the basics ready to go – and the initial work out of the way – the job can go quickly and smoothly. Not only do you save money by doing it yourself, but you get the satisfaction of seeing it done well, knowing you did it. Just flatten that knowledge hurdle and you’ll be jumping for joy.

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Once the paint dries, a thorough inspection is called for. Before removing any masking, look for areas near the edges or corners that are not quite covered. Be prepared for a little touch up here and there to ensure that the new paint was applied everywhere desired. Old paint may be the same color, but new paint is always a different shade, even from the exact same can of paint used a year earlier. All paint fades.

Then, keeping any drop cloths in place, remove all masking and covering from the trim or walls. Inspect again, looking for streaks, blotches and uneven or irregular areas. A final, professional look is only achieved by attention to the small details.

With a steady hand, touch up those areas where the lines aren’t quite straight or there’s unwanted overlap. Be prepared to scrape a little paint bleed off windows. No masking job is perfect. In some cases, it may be necessary to do a little sanding in small areas. If paint was applied in excessively hot weather there may be some bubbles to smooth out and re-do, for example.

Now for the part no one enjoys: clean up.

There’s no getting around the fact that cleaning up after any but the smallest painting projects is hard work. But knowing that you’ve done a great job and that you’re almost finished can lighten some of those dark thoughts.

If the project used latex paint, the job will be simplicity itself. Just rinse thoroughly with soap and water and before long tools, containers and you will be relatively paint free. Sometimes, small amounts just have to wear off.

For oil-based or alkyd paints a little more effort is required. But that work can be minimized if good preparation techniques were employed. Laying down drop cloths and plastic or paper covering is one method that’s effective for large areas. But for tools and body parts different techniques are required.

Unless you’re satisfied to let paint wear off your hands and face over a period of weeks, wearing a pair of gloves and a good mask and head covering during the job are essential. At the end of the job you just throw them away or save them for next time.

For quick jobs, or if you’ve torn a glove or run out, hand and face lotion can be pretty effective at keeping paint off the hands and face. Paint adheres to the lotion, then you wash normally and most of the paint will come off.

To remove excess oil or alkyd paint at the end of the day or after the final work, a good solvent is needed. Use gloves to protect your hands from it and clean up in a well ventilated area. Throwing away rollers and brushes is an option, but a very expensive one. With a little solvent and some elbow grease they can usually be reused several times.

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