When purchasing a new central air conditioning unit there are five guidelines to keep in mind that will keep you on track and make sure you do not waste your hard earned money.  These guidelines are just what they say they are: guidelines.  They are not laws or rules you need to follow, but they are suggestions that are meant to guide you towards buying the right central air conditioner for you and your home.

WHAT TYPE OF AIR CONDITIONER DO YOU NEED?

There are many brands of central air conditioning units available to purchase from any hardware or appliance store.  Some sales associates will try to sell you a window air conditioning unit.  Do not let that sales associate talk you into wasting your money.  These window air conditioners are a waste of money.  They usually only cool one room and they suck a lot of power so you will be spending a lot more money each month on the utility bill.  Remember that if you have multiple rooms or a house, you want a central air unit.  Do not let the sales associate trick you into anything else.

INSTALLATION OF MY CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING UNIT:

One more detail to consider is installation.  Most people do not want to crawl under, over, around, and through the walls of their house to install a new air conditioner.  That is why most places that sell these units also install them for you.  Some places install these free of charge with the purchase of a new unit.  Even if they don’t do it free, you should get someone to professionally install your new unit.  It will save you time, headaches, and sweat if you do.  If they do not offer installation, you may want to look elsewhere to purchase your unit.  It is much easier and cost efficient to get this all done in one step.

TEMPURATURE SETTINGS:

Most new units come with a new thermostat.  You should make sure this thermostat can create the ideal temperature that suits you and your family.  If you are comfortable in a room that is 60°, then make sure the unit will cool to that temperature.  You also need to make sure you can increase and decrease the temperature in 1° or 2° increments just in case you are not comfortable. 

FILTERS:

There are many filters out there today.  The ones that are permanent are the best value.  You simply take them out, hose them down, and stick them back in.  They save you a lot of money every year, not to mention you don’t have to keep track of what size you need.  Just remember to clean them once a month.  Also, make sure your unit supports these filters.

ENERGY SAVER:

You should also look to see if your new unit has a sleep setting or an energy saving setting.  This allows the unit to run when you are sleeping or not home and not run up your bill.  It will keep the house a little warmer when you are not home, and then cool it before you come home.  This saves hundreds of dollars a year.

Keeping these in mind, finding the perfect unit will be a snap and could turn out to be a fun shopping experience.  Just ask the sales associate for more details if you need help.   They can be most helpful if these guidelines still have you guessing.

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New Installation

I hereby declare this the DIY project for the complete and total non-DIYer. The easiest way to install a doorbell when there is not an existing one is to buy one of the wireless models. Talk about foolproof!

To get slightly more technical, a wireless doorbell is actually a transmitter. When a visitor pushes the button, a coded signal is sent to a receiver attached to the bell, and the doorbell chimes.

Some of the advantages of the wireless doorbells include:

If you have a hard time hearing the doorbell (even when it’s working that is), you can purchase more than one chime unit and tune them all to the same button. This way, you can place chimes all around the house to hear the doorbell ring wherever you may be.

It involves no wires and no more electricity than that of a small battery. The button unit requires a battery, but most of the indoor chime units can be plugged into an electrical outlet, ridding you of the need to remember to change multiple batteries.

Although replacing a wired doorbell is a quick project by most DIY standards, this one is even quicker. Other than the time spent choosing between the brass or gold finish, this project can be accomplished during one commercial break.

Replacement Installation

If you are really pressed for time or not interested in dealing with wires, simply replace your wired doorbell with one of the wireless models mentioned above. Remove the old doorbell switch with a flat screwdriver, tape up the wires with electrical tape, and tuck them back in the doorbell hole. Affix the new switch to the doorframe, covering the hole. Indoors, plug in the chime unit(s).

However, even replacing a wired doorbell with a new wired model will typically not take more than a half-hour. The only materials needed are the new switch and a flat screwdriver. To make life easier or show off your well-stocked tool kit, you may also choose to have wire strippers handy.

Decide whether to turn off the power. Typically this is not a question, but the main commandment of electrical work. However, because a doorbell is a low-voltage device and operates on a mere 12 volts, you can do this repair without turning off the power. If you are uncomfortable with leaving the power on or suspect that your doorbell may run on a higher voltage, go ahead and turn off the power at the breaker box or service panel.

Remove the old switch. Take out the screws and set aside, as you may choose to reuse them. Disconnect the wires, securing them so they cannot slide back in through the hold, and discard the old switch.

Cut and trim wires, if necessary. If the termination ends look worn or frayed, pull the wire out so you have a bit of slack and trim the wires to equal length. Strip approximately a half-inch of insulation from each wire.

Connect wires to the new switch. Connect wires to the two screw terminals on the new switch. It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which switch—it will work either way. Tighten the screws.

Install new switch. Feed the wires back through the hole and push the new switch so it is flush against the wall or doorframe. At this point, if the power is on, the new switch should be working. If you splurged and purchased a lighted model, look to see if it is lit. Test it and listen for the chime.

If you chose to purchase a new chime unit as well, find and replace the old chime unit using the same process. Pay attention to which wire goes to which terminal, however, because in this case they do need to be connected to the appropriate terminals on the new chime unit.

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When buying, remember that not all fans were created alike. In addition to price and style, some other factors to consider when buying your fan are:

Motor: more inexpensive fans often have an outer covering of thin metal, which increases the likelihood of rattles, clicks, hums, or buzzes during operation. Since many fans are installed in bedrooms, this can become an important consideration

Blades: Blade pitch can determine how effectively air is moved—an optimum pitch is 14 degrees. Also ensure that blades are balanced to avoid wobble.

Lighting: As in any other lighting situation, keep in mind lighting that is appropriate to the room’s size and function.

Room size: Not surprisingly, fans and rooms both vary in size. Make sure they vary accordingly in your house! Fans usually come in seven sizes, ranging from 32″ to 56″ blade spans. Come to the store armed with room measurements and speak with a lighting representative.

Mounting: For best results, fan blades need to be a minimum of seven feet above the floor, and have 12″ clearance below the ceiling. For lower ceilings, choose a close or low-ceiling mount fan. With higher ceilings, you can purchase a standard or angled mount with an extension down rod.

Bonus! For maximum effect, purchase a reversible fan that helps cool you in the summer and pushes warm air down from the ceiling in the winter to keep you comfortable year round.

Make a list and check it twice. At the most basic level, you’ll need the ceiling fan/light kit, screwdrivers, wire strippers, a circuit tester, pliers, and step ladder. If you need to replace the ceiling box, you’ll also need a new ceiling box, a hammer, and a drywall saw. Run through the installation process in your mind before actually picking up a tool to ensure that you have all the necessary components—nothing is more frustrating than being stuck on a step ladder, holding up the ceiling fan, and realizing the tool you need is tucked away in the toolbox in the basement!

Inventory the fan as you unpack. As you take the fan out of its box, give yourself plenty of room to inventory the multitude of pieces and parts. Then lay the parts out in order of installation. This way, you’ll be confident that you have all the parts before you start, and you’ll be able to move smoothly from one step to the next.

Turn off the electricity! You already know this, but it’s always worth mentioning. Turn off power to the light’s circuit breaker or fuse. Ensure the circuit is truly “dead” by checking with a high-voltage neon tester. If you’re working at night, a flashlight might be handy at this point.

Mounting the box: Always use a metal junction box—not plastic. Another item to keep in mind when mounting the box is that there’s several ways to mount it, depending on whether the box is next to a joist, in-between joists, or being mounted on a beamed ceiling. If no fixture was in the room previously, find the center of the room by snapping chalk lines diagonally between opposite corners. Also, the mounting must be able to withstand vibration, as even the most balanced fans cause some level of vibration when running.

Assemble. This step varies from one manufacturer to the next. Pay close attention to the specific instruction for your fan brand and style. However, keep in mind that if there is less than a screwdriver’s length between the blade and the ceiling, it might be easier to install the blades before hanging the fan. When you are finished, again check all screws for tightness.

Hang fan for wiring. Install the hanger hook or attach the ceiling plate to the fan box, whichever is appropriate for your fan model. If attaching a hanger bracket, but sure to use a lock washer, which will help prevent the fan’s vibration from loosening screws in the future.

Wiring the fan. To facilitate the wiring process, swag kits can make installation easier than ever. To improve ease of use once the fan is installed, you can also wire the ceiling fan through a fan speed control. Always electrically ground the fan to both the metal box and itself, using the grounding wires (typically either green or bare copper).

Let there be light! Install the light kit and controls you have chosen. This step typically varies according to individual models. However, in general the wires are provided with plug-in connectors. Be sure to tighten everything securely. Install the globe(s) and the light bulb(s).

Troubleshooting wobbles. Fan wobbles can range in severity from a minor irritation to a seriously hazardous situation. If you notice your fan wobbling, the first step is to take off the blades and examine them. Look for bent or misshapen blades. If you don’t see any obvious deformities, weigh them to determine if one is lighter or heavier than the rest. If one is underweight, affix a soft object such as an eraser to the middle on the top and see if that resolves the problem. For wobbles that are still unexplained, fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available.

You’re finished! Pat yourself on the back and enjoy the delightful breeze from your new ceiling fan.

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Before you decide to install an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, there are certain things to consider.  By doing so, it will make an easier installation with no complications that may be caused later on.  By knowing the directions and details of placing an antenna or satellite dish on your roof, you will be able to enjoy the use of this technology without having to go through re-installing the equipment more than once.  By installing an antenna or dish yourself, you can save money and it won’t take more than a couple of hours.  Be sure to install your new equipment correctly.

1.  Installation site.  Whether it is an antenna or satellite dish that you are installing, it is important to have a clear path for the dish to receive information.  There has to be a clear line of sight between satellites with the entire surface of the dish.  The line of site for either the dish or antenna shouldn’t be caught in the line of trees, roof tiles, etc. when you place it on your roof. 

2.  Finding the right place.  It is important to keep in mind that with either a dish or an antenna, it is best to put it in a place that not only is clear from any electrical lines, but also allows easy access.  By doing this, you will be able to repair or monitor your satellite dish or antenna much easier.  If you have to put the dish or antenna on your roof, it is always best to find a place where it isn’t going to cause the roof to create leaks into your home. 

3.   Have the right equipment.  There are usually only three parts that you have to connect in order to get the antenna or satellite dish to work right.  This includes the dish or antenna, a coax cable that connects the dish to the television and a receiver that plugs directly into your television.  When connecting, make sure that the dish or antenna is the shortest distance from where your television is.  It is also important to measure the length of the cable in order to determine whether it will reach the dish or antenna from the inside of your home.  If needed, you can connect a cable snake to route from further areas if you find it necessary.  Other types of equipment which you may need include a drill in order to mount the satellite or antenna in the right place, as well as screws for the dish or antenna.

4.  Know which way to point your dish.  If you point the dish or antenna in the wrong direction, you won’t be able to receive anything.  Usually, dishes should be pointed at an angle of twenty-five to fifty degrees.  You can find this by a compass that is usually included in the kit that you get when you install your dish.  

5.  Safety always comes first.  When going on your roof to install your antenna or satellite, remember to think of what you need to do in order to prevent yourself from falling.  It is best not to go on your roof if the weather has been cold or if it has been raining.  Make sure that the ladder that you have is sturdy as well.  It is best to have someone hold the ladder for you.  Another consideration is to make sure that your shoes have good traction in order to prevent you from falling or slipping while installing the satellite or antenna. 

When installing an antenna or satellite dish, there are several things to think through before installation.  By knowing the equipment that you need before you go onto your roof, as well as planning out how the dish or antenna will connect to your television, you will prevent hours of repair or work that you may need.  By understanding how the dish or antenna will work in relation to your home or television, you will only have to install the equipment once, allowing for an easy installation and several hours of a receptive television. 

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